Categories
Tips & Tricks

Cracked Piers – Don’t Panic

A building inspector recently told a young couple that were buying a house, “The piers are cracked. You need a structural engineer.”

What does that mean? Why do piers crack? What can a structural engineer do?

Building Inspector Report

When a building inspector reports that piers are cracked, they could be the concrete stumps under an older style low set house, or they could be engaged brick piers that make up part of a brick perimeter wall. Either way, the problem the

Photos of a cracked concrete pier
Cracked pier caused by corrosion of reinforcement

inspector is referring to is informally known as “concrete cancer”, ie corrosion of steel reinforcement.

Steel reinforcement corrodes when it is too close to the external surface of a concrete pier or brick pier. The effect is similar in both cases. The products of corrosion, rust, have a greater volume than the original steel. The steel grows in volume and pushes outwards. This causes the concrete or brickwork to crack. The cracks allow more air and more moisture into the pier. The corrosion process continues and accelerates.

Replacing Cracked Concrete Piers

If you have cracked piers you probably need a structural engineer to help solve the problem.

Short stumps under a low set house can be easily replaced with galvanised steel posts in a new concrete footing.  A structural engineer can specify what steel post to use and how big the footing needs to be. Check with a certifier to see if you need building approval for your project.

Repairing Cracked Brick Piers

For brick piers, the problem is somewhat more complicated. Stopping the corrosion in a brick pier is difficult. A structural engineer will help you identify the cause of the corrosion and can write a specification for the repairs or replacement of the cracked piers.

Cracked concrete stump under a house

Continuing Our Story

For the young couple, they decided to go ahead with their purchase. They have scheduled some post replacement weekends to replace the cracked piers under their house and they’re enjoying their new house.

Don’t Panic

Don’t panic if your inspector tells you you have some cracked stumps. Call Cornell Engineers. We’ll help you work out why the piers are cracked and the best way to fix them.

By Matt Cornell
Cornell Engineers

Categories
Tips & Tricks

What is a Cut Off Trench

A cut-off trench is my favourite, last-chance weapon against slab heave. Also known as the cut-off wall, a cut-off trench is a powerful weapon of last resort.

What is a Cut-Off Trench?

A cut-off trench is a deep trench around the outside of an existing house that is filled with impermeable material to isolate the soil under a house from external soil moisture sources.

Try Everything Else First

All of the other ways of fixing slab heave must be tried and exhausted first. Check our other pages on slab heave first!

The reason this is your last chance to fix slab heave is that the cut of trench is very expensive and very disruptive. It must be installed by a very careful, qualified contractor as the work involves digging deep trenches right beside the house.

What it Looks Like

Cut off trench for houses suffering slab heave
Cut Off Trench Detail

What is a Cut-Off Trench

The features of a cut-off trench are as follows:

  • Dig a deep trench right around your house. Position it about 1.5m from the house.
  • The depth of the trench is normally dug to the Hs (the depth of soil that contributes to ground surface movement).  Ask your soil tester for this number.
  • The trench is lined with a vertical layer of polyethylene (black plastic) or is fully concrete filled. I like using root barrier plastic.  It’s thicker and a little harder to place, but tougher and more resistant to tears. The plastic runs from the bottom of the trench to the top of the trench and then across to the house.
  • At the house the black plastic is parged to the foundation concrete to seal it.
  • The vertical laps are taped.
  • The pipe penetrations are covered with another square of plastic and taped.
  • The bottom of the trench is sealed with bentonite clay.
  • The trench is back-filled with concrete or a soil and cement mix.
  • A concrete path is poured around the house to protect the plastic where it runs across to the house.

Isolation Achieved

That’s it. The ground under the house is now fully isolated from external moisture sources.

Any moisture trapped under the house slowly stabilises across the width of the house. The stable moisture content across the building is now consistent like it was before the house was built.

In time the house will stop moving and you can go ahead and fix the damage.

A Cut of Trench is Not A Drainage Trench

Installing a drainage trench around your house (as recommended by some experts) is one of the worst things you can do to treat slab heave on a flat site.

A porous drainage trench allows water to flow into and sit in the trench and soak into the ground right around your house. A drainage trench is exactly what I would use if I was TRYING to cause slab heave in a house!

However, if you are experiencing slab heave on a sloping site and the bottom of a drainage trench can be designed to discharge water AWAY from a building, then a drainage trench might have merit.

Contact us to see if a cut-off trench or a drainage trench are the right solution for your slab heave problems.

Categories
Footings and Slabs

What is a soil test and how is it used to design house foundations

A soil test on your property is used to help structural engineers get some information about the soil on your block. The information in a soil test is used by a structural engineer to design the footings or foundations for your new house or house extension.

Structural engineers need to know if there are any problems with the soil on your block so that they can design your house footings correctly for those site conditions.

The main soil problems are:
Soft soil
Loose soil
Overly wet soil
Clay soil (reactive clays)

Of these, the soil problem that has been getting the worst press lately is reactive clay soils resulting in Slab Heave.

Reactive clays change in volume substantially when they absorb and release moisture.

The change in volume results in the ground surface moving up and down and this can cause damage to a house.

Reactive Clays

Reactive clays are classed as follows:

Class M Reactive Clay

Class “M”: a moderately reactive clay. We see this site classification about 35% of the time.

Ground movement isn’t ‘too bad’ and house slabs can easily be designed for this soil.

Ground surface can move vertically between 20mm and 40mm between wet and dry conditions (seasons).

Class M soils will move more than this if subjected to extreme moisture conditions so good drainage around a dwelling is essential.

Class H Reactive Clay

Class “H”: a highly reactive clay. We see this site class around 20% of the time.

H class soils have been broken into two groups. H2 soils are more reactive than H1 soils so the footings for a H2 site are going to need to be stiffer than if you have a Class H1 or Class M soil.

In general, ground movement on Class H1 and H2 sites is a bit more serious than Class M and Class S sites. Your engineer will need to be a bit more careful with the design and you’ll need to ensure and maintain good drainage around your home.

The footing and slab code starts introducing special requirements for drainage and for protecting pipes from the movement that is likely to occur.

Class E Reactive Clay

Class “E”: an extremely reactive clay. We see this site classification about 2% of the time.

Very special care needs to be taken with the footing design and extra precautions are needed by the builder and homeowner (for the life of the building) to protect the house from slab heave.

This is a life-long soil condition and future homeowners need to be aware of the limits and disclaimers in the footing design so that they don’t contribute to uneven movement and damage to the house.

Class S Soil

Firm sandy sites are classified as Class “S”. These are my favourite sites.

They are nice and easy to design.

There is no reactive clay movement to worry about. the soil is relatively stable and firm and slab on ground houses only need slab thickenings under external walls and internal concentrated load points.

We see Class “S” sites about 15% of the time.

Class P Soil Sites

Soft soils, loose soils, wet soils and other problem soils are classed as:
Class “P” problem sites.

We traditionally saw Class P sites about 28% of the time. Recently we’ve seen Class P about 75% of the time. This is because trees have so much influence on the performance of a foundation that soil testers have been forced to remind design engineers when trees are nearby.

For the other causes of Class P soils, usually, the soil test has information that describes the problem with the soil.

You’ll need an engineer to design your footings to solve these problems. Some of the common “Problems” are:

  • Uncontrolled fill. Extra soil that has been placed on your block that either hasn’t been compacted properly or that doesn’t have the paperwork (compaction tests) to show that it has been placed and compacted properly.
  • Soft soil. Soil could be soft because it is loose or unusually moist. Soft soil may not be strong enough to support the weight of your new building without extra precautions being taken.
  • Abnormal moisture conditions. If the soil tester has identified the potential for abnormal soil moisture changes on your block, they’ll explain the reason in the report.

Soil tests for house sites are carried out in Australia to comply with Australian Standard AS2870.

You don’t need to be familiar with this standard unless you are a builder, an engineer or a certifier.

However, the disclaimers and information that is on the soil test and on the engineer’s plans are often derived from the rules in AS2870.

So you need to read these rules, understand them, and pass the information on to the next homeowner. The soil under your house is there for the life of your building.

How to arrange a soil test

This is what you should do when you need to arrange a soil test for a new house or a building extension:

  • Get a copy of the site plan showing any existing buildings and any new buildings.
  • Email the site plan to your soil testing company. Ask for a quotation for a site classification (or soil test to AS2870).
  • Approve the quotation.
  • Be available to give the soil tester access to your site. Be aware of any underground services so that the drill rig does not damage underground infrastructure.
  • You should receive the soil report as a written report in pdf format. Forward a copy of the soil report on to your designer and/or engineer.

The effect of Trees on a soil test

Particularly on reactive clay sites, the influence of tree roots on a house can be devastating. that is because tree roots affect the amount of moisture in the soil wherever the tree roots occur. The fact that tree roots do not affect a whole house the same way creates issues with uneven foundation movement which can lead to internal and external damage in a house.

The soil test’s estimate of the normal site reactivity generally does not include the effect of tree roots – so the estimate of reactive soil movement under-estimates the amount of uneven foundation movement possible if trees are close to the building.

Some soil tests do include an estimate of the effect that tree roots will have on the site classification. They call this effect yt.

Remember that tree roots can increase the uneven soil moisture profile on your allotment. Large trees or a group of trees can have quite a large effect on the performance of a foundation.

Consult your soil tester and structural engineer to determine what precautions you can take to protect your home from the effect of trees on your site classification.

Independent Soil Testing

When we are investigating movement and damage in a fairly new dwelling we like to get an independent assessment of the soil conditions on the site – even if there is a soil test already.

The site classification industry is pretty good but soil tests only examine the soil in one or two spots on your allotment. If the soil conditions are variable then the soil test may not tell the whole story.

An independent soil test gives us a clue as to the accuracy of the original soil test and whether we should be expecting more or less foundation movement than originally reported.

If you are investigating movement in an existing dwelling, I really recommend getting an independent soil test as part of the investigation.

In small towns, this is especially difficult but it is almost always worth it.

How is a soil test used to Design House Foundations?

The information in a soil test includes the soil reactivity, information on the load-carrying capacity of the soil (bearing capacity of the soil), the density of the soil (whether the soil is loose or tightly packed) and the amount of moisture in the soil.

A structural engineer will use this information when designing the footings for a house, a commercial building or an industrial building to ensure the soil is not overloaded by the building (so that the imposed loads do not exceed the load-carrying capacity of the soil) and so that the stiffness of the foundation system is capable of moderating the uneven movement potential of the site. For example, double brick walls are a lot less tolerant of uneven movement than single brick or plasterboard walls.

Find A Soil Tester

Find a soil tester in Mackay, Queensland.

Find a soil tester in Brisbane, Queensland.

Or use one of our recommended soil testers.

By Matt Cornell
For Cornell Engineers – Structural Engineers
A Structural Engineering Blog

Categories
Footings and Slabs Home Maintenance and Repairs

Slab Heave Explainer Video

What is slab heave and how does it affect houses?

Hi. I’m structural engineer Matt Cornell and this is my explainer video on slab heave.

Categories
Home Renovation

Time to get a new fence

Cornell Engineers can help with the structural engineering of your new concrete masonry fence.
Concrete masonry fences are suitable for sloping blocks as they can be integrated with your retaining walls. They’re strong and look great.
We use the design guidelines published by the Cement and Masonry Association, including these manuals:

Blockwork Calculator

What time is it when an elephant sits on your fence?

Time to get a new fence.