An agricultural drain, usually called an ag drain, agi pipe, ag line or French drain, is a slotted pipe laid in a gravel-filled trench to collect water from the ground and carry it away. Installed well, it protects a house. Installed badly, it can do the opposite: feed water into the ground beside the footings and cause movement and cracking.
We regularly investigate cracked houses where a drain installed to “fix” a moisture problem has become part of the cause. This article explains how ag drains work, how they go wrong, and how to install one so it actually helps.
What Is an Ag Drain?
An ag drain is a subsoil drain. It is made up of:
- a trench dug to the required depth;
- a slotted, flexible pipe (agi pipe) laid in the bottom of the trench, often with a geofabric sock to keep soil out;
- clean gravel backfill, commonly 10 mm or 20 mm aggregate, around and above the pipe; and
- in better installations, geofabric wrapped around the whole gravel trench to stop fine soil washing in and clogging it.
Water in the surrounding soil seeps into the gravel, enters the pipe through the slots, and flows along the pipe by gravity to an outlet.
How an Ag Drain Works: Diagram
How Agricultural Drains Wreck Houses
An ag drain is meant to take water out of the ground. It causes damage when it starts putting water in.
On reactive clay sites this matters a great deal. Clay swells when it gets wetter and shrinks when it dries. A drain that concentrates water beside part of a house can make that part of the footing rise or move differently from the rest, and the result is cracking. The NCC’s guidance recognises the same risk: in clay soils, subsoil drains can change long-term soil moisture under a building, by removing water or by introducing it.
The most common ways an ag drain becomes a water source are:
- Connecting it to roof downpipes. Every time it rains, roof water can surge back into the slotted pipe and flood the trench it was meant to drain. The drain becomes an irrigation line beside your footings.
- No fall, or a fall the wrong way. Ag pipe does not make water flow uphill. If the pipe or trench base is flat, dips, or falls towards the house, water sits in the trench and soaks into the ground.
- A blocked or buried outlet. A drain with nowhere to discharge simply stores water.
- Silted or root-filled pipe. Without geofabric, fine soil washes in and the drain gradually stops working.
- Placing it right against the footing, or running slotted pipe under the house, where any water it releases goes straight to the foundation.
How to Install an Ag Drain Properly
- Manage surface water at the surface. If water is flowing over the ground, use grading or spoon drains, not ag pipe. Ag drains are for water that is already in the ground.
- Keep it separate from roof water. Never connect ag pipe into roof downpipe lines. Run it as its own system.
- Grade the pipe and the trench base. Both must fall consistently in the direction of flow, so water in and around the pipe drains by gravity along the trench. Tamp the trench base firm.
- Keep it away from the footings. We recommend keeping ag drains at least 1 m from house footings, with the ground between graded away from the house or covered with a sealed path.
- Never run slotted pipe under a house. Use solid pipe under the building, and avoid introducing water under the slab or footings.
- Keep silt out. Use socked pipe and wrap the gravel trench in geotextile, such as a non-woven geotextile drainage fabric.
- Provide flushing points. Bring the upper end of the pipe to the surface and cap it so the line can be flushed out, for example with a drain jetter hose kit on a pressure washer. Include silt pits where needed and keep them clean.
- Discharge downhill of the house. The outlet must be lower than the house it is protecting, at a legal point of discharge.
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Can You Connect Agi Pipe to Stormwater?
Ag drains often do discharge to the property’s stormwater system. The connection point is what matters. It should be downhill of the house and arranged so stormwater cannot back up into the slotted pipe, for example through a silt pit at the low end. It should never tie into roof downpipe lines beside the house.
Stormwater connections are plumbing work, so have a licensed plumber confirm the arrangement and the legal point of discharge for your property.
When Should You Use an Ag Drain?
Treat an ag drain as a tool for subsoil water, not a first response to puddles. Surface water should be dealt with at the surface wherever possible. Subsoil drains are appropriate where water is already moving through the ground, such as:
- uphill of a house, where groundwater is moving through the soil towards it;
- behind retaining walls;
- beside basement walls and deep footings; and
- on the uphill side of cut-and-fill sites.
Ag Pipe Behind Retaining Walls
Behind a retaining wall, the ag drain relieves water pressure that would otherwise build up against the wall. It is normally laid at the base of the wall in free-draining gravel, wrapped in geofabric, and graded to an outlet at the end of the wall.
The same rules apply: it needs a consistent fall, a free outlet and protection from silt. A retaining wall drain that is blocked or has no outlet can lead to water staining, efflorescence, leaning and, in the worst cases, failure of the wall.
Fixing Poor Drainage Around Your House
Keeping water away from footings is one of the most effective ways to improve how a house performs, especially on reactive clay where slab heave is a risk.
The starting point is surface drainage: the ground around a house should fall away from it, with a fall of at least 50 mm over the first metre. On small or sloping sites that is often hard to achieve:
- houses built close to the boundary depend on ground levels next door; and
- on cut sites, water that falls between the house and the retaining wall has nowhere to go without good surface or subsoil drainage.
Before deciding on ag drains, work out where the water is actually coming from. Our video on drainage for houses on sloping sites walks through that process. There is more in our article on houses on sloping blocks with drainage problems.
For new builds, our video on waffle slabs and site drainage covers how to get drainage right at the construction stage.
A Typical Ag Pipe Question
I have an existing agi pipe that slopes towards the house to a small drain that was, until I cleaned it out, full of soil. The pipe is also full of soil and plant roots are growing through it.
Our answer was that the first question is whether the pipe is needed at all. Ag pipe is used either to collect water from the ground or, in other applications, to spread it into the ground. Decide which job this pipe is meant to be doing.
If it is needed, replace it with socked pipe in a geofabric-wrapped trench. Make sure the trench base falls away from the house to a proper outlet. A pipe that falls towards the house is delivering water to it.
Where the water is coming from a roof or a paved area, we generally prefer to keep it on the surface and direct it away. As this case shows, buried pipes tend to block up.
Ag Drain Checklist
- Do manage surface water at the surface first.
- Do use ag drains to remove water that is already in the ground.
- Do grade the pipe and trench base so water flows away from the house.
- Do keep ag drains at least 1 m from house footings.
- Do use socked pipe and geofabric, and provide flushing points.
- Do discharge downhill of the house.
- Don’t connect ag pipe to roof downpipes.
- Don’t run slotted pipe under a house.
Cracking or Movement Linked to Drainage?
If your house is cracking and you suspect drainage, including a drain that was meant to fix the problem, the cause needs to be established before more money is spent. Cornell Engineers investigates moisture-related building movement and gives practical advice on what needs to change. See our forensic structural engineering page for more.
Send us the property address, photographs of the cracking and the drainage, a short description of what has happened and any reports you already have. We will review the information and let you know whether the matter is a good fit for Cornell Engineers before preparing a fee proposal.


54 replies on “How Agricultural Drains Wreck Houses (and How to Install Them Properly)”
Hi Matt, thank you for your educational videos! Thanks to you I have understood so much more about drainage and ag drains… and unfortunately CCTV inspection of our drainage system that was pre-existing before we moved in has done what you have specifically advised against – having downpipes and slotted drains draining into Ag drains, which are both blocked!!! I was aghast…
In exploring options for correcting this plumbing nightmare, I came across a different technology utilitising capillary action called Capiphon which seems to be more cost effective and would be less prone to the issues that Ag drains face – https://capiphon.com.au/
I was wondering whether you had come across this technology before and whether you have any comments on it?
Thank you!
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I had not previously encountered Capiphon, so I have looked into it.
I remain cautious about the explanation provided. Capillary action may draw water into the small grooves in the belt and help keep those grooves wetted, but it does not provide a continuing source of energy to carry water away. The system still requires a fall or a discharge point lower than the area being drained.
The manufacturer states that flow begins with approximately 10 mm of water above the belt, a belt laid at a 1–2% fall, or a drop into a lower collector. On that basis, it appears to be a specialised gravity drain that may begin collecting water at a lower head than conventional slotted pipe—not a drain that independently siphons water uphill.
It is an interesting product, but I have not used it and would want to see convincing independent field evidence before recommending it in place of a conventional, properly designed subsurface drainage system.
Great articles and very good advice, very appreciated.Garry
Great information. Thank you for sharing.
Question- What are your views on using Geofabric when doing an ahi pipe in gravel?
Some people say the Geofabric will eventually silt up and become impermeable, especially in clay soils.
I have read to just use 10mm gravel and no fabric. And to have an ac edible inlet to back flush the ahi every few years?
Thanks
Agi pipe. Sorry.
Hi, this is exactly what I was looking for and answers most of my questions.
We have bought a townhouse in the outer north of Brisbane. The block has a very slight slope with the backyard on the high side. As I’ve been repairing the neglected backyard I discovered agripipe running across the slope about 5m from the house each end was sticking out of the ground. Part had to be removed for a shed slab and I’ve since discovered it’s connected to the stormwater. Should it stay or should it go? We have had some good heavy rain since buying the place and it’s all soaked into the ground quickly, more so since we’ve been growing lawn and breaking up the topsoil.
Hi Matthew, thanks you – this article is exactly what was I was looking for! When you say “Position agricultural drains no closer than 1m from your house footings.”, is this just a recommendation or is it part of a regulation/code (if so what reg please)? Also, do regulations require an agi pipe to be discharged into a pit/stormwater system, or can it simply discharge into the ground? I’ve had a neighbour install an agi pipe running parallel to the entire side of my house (within 300mm) with it discharging into the ground at the corner end of their yard right next to my slab and footings! Thanks
Isitssafetodigagatrenchunderthehousealongthewall4wide+2inchesdeeptoagravalpit
Hi James, would you like to buy a “space” key?
My daughter purchased a house near Ipswich Qld and although it hasn’t rained since purchased. Water does pool under the house. it was built in 1926 and has hardwood stumps. The house is on a sloping block. Previous owners have dug out underneath. if you take one corner of the house then go in about a metre on each side to create another right angle then a bessa block wall was created on this right angle. This bessa block wall was not water proofed and the water leaks through onto the concrete in front of this bessa block wall. The wall is only 3 bessa block high and the bottom 1 or 2 have water marks on the side facing away from the dirt. We have installed an agi drain about half a metre from the house in the same right angle. It is an investment property so its difficult to see what happens in the future. we have dug out behind the retaining wall and water proofed this. We were going to install a 2nd agi pipe behind this bessa block wall. and back fill with rocks to the height of the dirt behind the wall. Then I read your article that says dont do agi pipe under houses,……. Some of the timber stumps which we have painted several times were going to be in this trench………. We were going to fill with rock etc today 12.08.22 so any quick reply would be very helpful
Is having grass etc abutting the slab a good/bad idea or does it not matter as long as you have a downwards slope with the clay layer (and enough clearance for termite inspections etc)?
A plumber has given me a stormwater drainage plan for my house in Tasmania but I’m a bit suspicious of it now. He proposing an ag pipe drain running along and abutting the back of the house (lots of concrete in the back yard so water runs straight off it into a narrow garden bed abutting the house). Can you recommend hydraulic engineers for residential work in northwest Tasmania? Most of the firms in the area seem to offer services only on big civil engineering projects, not house blocks.
Hi Sian
Sorry, this request slipped through the drainage weep holes (I was going to say cracks but I thought I’d keep it in the spirit of the question).
In any case, unfortunately, I don’t. We’re one of those weird breeds of engineers that hones our drainage skills by fixing mistakes and problems that were brought to us on site.
Try looking for a forensic engineer in your area. They’ll have some experience with fixing drainage because it is such a common issue.
Otherwise use our video and information to sanity-check the advice you are given (as you have already done) and keep getting quotes until you find someone that can reassure you they know what they are doing.
Best of luck.
Matt Cornell
Hi Matthew,
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I’ve recently installed an ag line 60cm away from my house’s foundation, as my next door neighbour’s house is higher than mine and i get water pooling alongside my house as a result of that.
After reading your article would you suggest removing the ag line and installing something like a spoon drain or channel drain instead, to prevent any slab issues in the future?
The ag line has it’s own piping, which is why i thought it might be okay.
I have clay soil in my area as well.
Ash
Hi Ash
If the water is coming from next door as surface water, I really prefer to manage that water at surface level with spoon drains and swales and, if necessary, grated drains. These options are easier to maintain so you can be assured they are collecting and channelling water as expected.
By introducing water into the ground, especially clayey ground, your risk level goes up. You need to be really careful that your trench is free-draining, that you house footings can tolerate a bit of water sitting near them each time it rains, that the ag pipe can be and is flushed to remove debris from time to time.
Redoing previous gravell-filled trenches introduces a new issue – water will still soak into your old/new gravel filled tranch as much as it runs down a spoon drain. Ideally if you change form subsoil drainage to surface drainage you need to try and stop water getting into your gravel trench. That means replacing the surface level gravel with tamped clay.
I the gravel trench and ag pipe are working for now, it’s probably best to monitor and maintain for now until it stops working and then you can change to a surface dain system.
Matt Cornell
Hi Matt,
I have read and re-read this article and learnt a great deal from it. I have two questions.
You say that agi pipes should never been put under a house. My house is on a sloping block. It is essentially on one level but underneath the main level, on the downhill side, there is at one end a fully lined and carpeted room accessed by interior stairs and at the other end a carport. A central supporting wall runs the full length of the house. On the uphill side of this wall an agi pipe was installed in a gravel bed when the house was built. The agi pipe is the slotted PVC type, not the coiled type that you show in your article. The purpose of this agi pipe was obviously to take away any subsurface moisture that might reach he footings for the wall.
I have lived in this house 38 years and the house was built 2-3 years before I bought it. I have never seen any moisture in this area. That could be because the agi pipe has been very effective or because little moisture gets down to this point. I should point out that on the uphill side of the house, there is a large concrete area which directs water away from the house during heavy rain. My impression is that over the years the ground has more or less completely dried out. However, it is conceivable that in an extremely prolonged heavy rain event moisture might eventually come down into the under house area.
So, my first question is: is this not an appropriate use of agi pipe under a house?
This brings me to my second question.
I am now wanting to lay a concrete slab in part of the area where the agi pipe lies, to create a small workshop. The slab would go over the agi pipe. I am proposing to put an new agi pipe in a gravel bed alongside the slab, connecting it into the existing pipe. Should I replace the existing agi pipe with an unspotted PVC pipe on the basis that the new pipe will perform the function of the existing pipe and it is unwise to have agi pipe under a slab, or is it satisfactory to leave the existing pipe? As I’ve explained, the existing agi pipe runs the full length of the house. The concrete slab would only run half the length of the house. So the pipe that would end up under the slab might be called on, under the type of extreme conditions described above, to drain moisture from the area further along the house that will not be covered by the slab.
Hi Alistair
It’s hard to know without attending the site and/or seeing photos. I’d say an aggi pipe on the high side of the basement area that has been installed in a gravel bed and the whole thing drains freely to somewhere downhill of your house is a fine way to handle any leftover water that makes it past your surface water drainage system.
Creating more space under the house and installing additional aggi pipes and gravel drain combinations are also fine so long as they too are free-draining and discharge downhill.
To test your new system do this: Once the agg pipe has been laid but before placing the gravel, run a hose in the basement area at or near the top end of the aggi pipe. Let it flood the ground and flow whichever way you have it set up. Along the base of the trench locate each little dammed-up area of water and smooth out the base of your trench so that water runs freely along the trench. A good trench doesn’t rely on the ag drain. Water should flow freely along the trench and out. Once you have the trench draining freely, backfill with gravel.
Matt Cornell
Very informative, thanks.
My house is on low set steal columns in concrete footings. VERY Very sand coastal soil. House is “L”” shaped with ground slight sloping to the foot of the “L” and beyond. The foot is the front of the house. Stormwater flows into a large spoon drain outside the front of the property. Water flows under the house to a stormwater pipe in the ground – strictly speaking it probably should be a poly pit with the stormwater polypipe connected to it but it currently sticks a couple of mm above the ground surface.
As is often the case the base of some of the stumps show signs of rust that am dealing with.
Part of the project is to ensure water and soil do not encroach onto the concrete footing. Unfortunately some of the footings along the vertical of the “L” are now below ground level so a lot of digging, retaining, placing of rocks of varying sizes.
The problem area is the internal right side of the upright part of the “L”.
In the process of digging down to slightly below the top of the footings, have noticed quite a bit of water under the surface which is slowly seeping through the soil to storm water pipe surface opening that ultimately leads to a very large spoon drain outside property. Water also flows on the surface to here.
There is no where else for this, and any other water to go other than under the foot of the “L” if you will.
My current idea is to dig a trench along the length of this part of the house and install ag pipe along with the requisite gravel, rocks etc sloping down to that internal corner of the “L”, and from there connect to a new stormwater pipe on the slightly sloping ground and direct it to the front of the house. Am planning on having a very course layer of rocks near the surface covered with decorating rocks – the garden that is there at the moment will be removed.
This could be temporary, as will also have to replace some on ground [grrr] timber decking adjacent to it soon and could perhaps run the water stormwater pipe under that to bitumen driveway if can create sufficient fall.
By doing this, I hope to keep the soil as dry as possible, reduce the amount of surface water under the house in down pours and importantly, ensure no soil and water is deposited over time around the base of the steel columns.
I got a little spooled about your comment that agipipe and should not be used under or around house footing. I take it this mainly refers to slab on ground constructions. But wondering if principle also applies to the concrete footing for the steal stumps.
Any thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
A couple of relevant details I omitted –
the slope of ground is from the top of the “L” to and beyond the base.
the proposed agi pipe installation will be right beside the concrete footings. Less than 2 metres from these is paving, probably on concrete as part of the pool that is less than a further meter away.
Hi Neil
A couple of things spring to mind:
– Very, very sandy soils should already be fairly stable (ie not subject to changes with changes in the amount of moisture).
– Very, very sandy soils are already free-draining.
Capturing and trying to divert water in very sandy soils is going to be difficult. You would need to provide a path for the moisture that is less resistant to the moisture flow than the relatively easy flow of moisture between the sand particles.
The benefit of a drainage system in these circumstances is a little bit lost to me. You aren’t fighting slab heave. The moisture can pass under a house on stumps with very little impact (except if it were to become a surface flow and damage items stored in the vicinity).
I would start with a review of our video on improving drainage on sloping sites (https://cornellengineers.com.au/houses-on-sloping-blocks-with-drainage-problems/) and perhaps try to cut off the water as far upstream and uphill as possible. This work may involve agg drains, but like I say – it will be quite hard to make water want to flow sideways when it already wants to flow down the hill towards your house)
best of luck
Matt Cornell
Hi mate, what do you suggest if the retaining wall is backfilled and no access dig a trench next to is to install the agi pipes?
Thanks.
Hi Max
Drainage of the soil behind a retaining wall isn’t an optional luxury – it is a necessary part of keeping that soil dry enough that it does not slump and apply large pressures to the wall.
So.
Depending on the type of retaining wall you have some work to do.
If the wall is a sleeper retaining wall and water can flow out of the wall between the sleepers then don’t do anything. Allow the water to weep through the wall and ensure grit and silt don’t come through the wall.
For every other type of wall, try to implement a system that will allow the water to flow out of the soil behind the wall or stop it from getting into the soil in the first place. Surface drainage, and drainage pipes through the wall are the first two ideas that come to mind.
Trying to implement these ‘fixes’ after a wall has been built makes it quite difficult to achieve success. I’d really recommend engaging a local structural or geotechnical engineer to give formal advice specific to your situation.
Matt Cornell
Hi Matt,
Thank you for the informative article! I’m from South Africa (on the eastern coast of Kwa-Zulu Natal), and have been having waterproofing issues on my boundary wall due to my neighbour’s land being higher than mine.
I’ve managed to get a qualified waterproofing company who assessed the situation and recommended a torch-on waterproofing application and an Agri-Drain Slotted Drainage System on my neighbor’s side of the wall (which will be installed in the wall trench and will run onto the road/stormwater drain)
My neighbor is concerned that the agri drain will affect his boundary wall foundation. I would like to know if we should be concerned regarding any possible damages by installing the agri-drain system?
Thanks!
Hi, I watched your video on spoon drains. We are having some high moisture readings in our slab from an 18 month old house that we built. And looking back it looks like plumbing wasn’t completed per engineer requirements on our class p with H1 characteristics site. The plans also make mention of spoon drains or earthern spoon drains. How would we identify if these were used during construction? Thanks so much
Hi Michael
If spoon drains were built or formed during construction – you’d still be able to see them today. They aren’t only required for the period your house is being built, they are a long-term and permanent drainage feature.
They would be identifiable as a low patch in the yard where water runs towards when it rains and then flows around and downhill of the house.
It might be time to have a chat to the original builder and certifier and ask why they weren’t built.
Matt Cornell
Hi there, I am in Adelaide combatting the Adelaide soils and overflow from my unwilling neighbours verandah turning the side of my house into Niagara Falls for over 20 years. I have had my house underpinned to no avail as my house and especially that corner is still sinking and the walls cracking. The council are unwilling to help. I think maybe this agg drain may be my last resort before I give up entirely. Do you have any contacts in Adelaide that you recommend.
Hi,
I have a 40 year old brick veneer home, standard strip footings.
Sloping block from rear to the front. Paving at rear is level with perpen joints and a lot of ground water running from the rear property and subsequently under the house. I was going to run a ag line the full length of the rear of the house but install building grade plastic sheeting against the wall before I lay the ag line, is this ok ?
Hi Steve
If the paving is at the perpend joints then that might be a termite entry problem. Consult a termite specialist about what you need to do to achieve protection against entry by termites.
Groundwater running toward the back of the house is a problem but if the water is on the surface, why not keep it there and use a spoon drain to collect the water and discharge it sideways https://youtu.be/zKXIMkwXxO8
A spoon drain can be built integrally with a concrete slab falling away from the building and/or you can use pavers over plastic but the plastic and the clay under the plastic should be shaped to drain away from the building. There is no point in having a slab and plastic if the sand underneath the plastic allows water direct access to the soil your house is built on.
Hi, sorry for the very late reply but have been sick. Thank you for you initial reply. Under the pavers was a concrete path. The ground water is running down from the rear neighbour under the concrete path then finding its way under the strip footing. I was thinking exposing the strip footing, digging down no further than 150mm next to the footing. Lay commercial grade plastic up and over footing, into the 150mm area and laying the ag line. What do you think ? Thanks in advance. Steve
One of the exceptional article about drainage problem. We need to be careful about this issue.
Thanks for the tip to use spoon drains if the water is on the surface. I think people tend to forget this and end up messing up their drains. I don’t want that to happen to me so I’ll have a professional help me out.
I was looking for this information relating to such how agricultural drains wreck houses. You have really eased my work by posting this article, loved your writing skill as well. Please keep sharing more, would love to read more from you!
Very clear and useful article. Thanks!
Note: French drains were named after Henry French, a 19th-century judge and farmer, not because they came from France.
This spoils an otherwise good article
Hi Fred
How embarrassing. I’m pleased to say I’ve learned something today. Thank you. I’ll correct the article immediately. Credit to Mr Henry French (and you) where credit is definitely due.
Matthew Cornell
I am needing to put agi pipe trenches through my backyard to prevent boggy soil. My backyard is about 10cm of topsoil on top of clay, doesn’t drain and the backyard is almost flat.
I am finding it difficult to find some ‘rules of thumb’ or recommendations or guidance on line as to the spacing apart required for the trenches. Can you help ?
Also is 100mm agi pipe pretty much the standard diameter to use or can narrower pipe be used ?
Hi Greg
Some of your questions might be answered in my article about solving drainage on sloping sites. https://cornellengineers.com.au/houses-on-sloping-blocks-with-drainage-problems/
Some of those solutions apply just as well to flat sites!
Matt Cornell
Hi Matt,
I’ve received the following advice: “Additional surface water runoff drainage is recommended to be installed at the front of the subject property. An agi pipe can be installed to the perimeter of the dwelling, diverting water to the legal point of discharge through the properties current stormwater drainage
system. This will prevent further water erosion causing subsidence.”
For context, my house is on a block with a site slope from sw to nw. Reading your article I’m a little apprehensive about this – how can I talk to the engineer about it?
Hi Matthew,
Great article and Video! I have officially subscribed look forward to share your vids.
I see that you are situated in Brisbane. I was wondering if you guys do any work in Sydney or if you possibly know a reliable drainage engineer?
Hi Pamela
Thanks for following us. We’ve provided advice for drainage job/problems in Sydney and we’ve had engineers in Sydney a few times. Let’s find out if we can help – perhaps send us a Messenger message and let’s see. m.me/CornellEngineers. If we can’t help, I’ll see if I can recommend someone.
What drainage can I do if the subfloor of a lean-to on piers, is around 400mm below the finished ground level of the paving outside? This is proposed new work, and the lean-to is facing a hill. It’s making me nervous to leave the subfloor space with no drainage out of it…? A builder is saying to install an ag pipe which I now realise is wrong from your article
Hi Sue,
I’m glad you are investigating the issues with poor drainage now before troubles begin. So many people get caught out with poor drainage after the builder has already finished.
Surface drainage is my preferred way of avoiding problems if it is at all possible. The ground should grade away from the building on all sides even though the natural grade of the ground is towards the building. Can the builder assist with adjusting the ground around the building as part of the work?
Sometimes there really is no alternative to installing an agricultural drain but it really is not the best way to take care of surface water.
Matt Cornell
Good write-up.
In the how Not to put in Ag-Drain, I thought the drawing as presented may also undermine house footings. As well as introducing moisture to potentially reactive soil.
Good point MD. It may well cause a subsidence problem – all the more reason to be really careful with excavations and the placement of trenches beside a dwelling. Thanks for your comment.
Matt
These agricultural drains – are they the same thing as “French Drains” as per the wiki article? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain
I wouldn’t trust a plumber for good advice; from my experience, they will overcharge and under deliver. I was upgrading my stormwater system and had to get council engineer approval – unfortunately, the engineer made a rookie mistake with his calculations but it would have been obvious to the plumber that built the system, as the pipe should have been 150 mm, not 100 mm as the plan specified – the plumber didn’t say a word, probably laughing behind my back, knowing the system would back up with heavy rain, which it does.
Other plumbers I’ve used have overcharged and also did substandard work, including using second-hand pits with holes from previous use in the wrong place.
I don’t get it Pete – You wouldn’t trust a plumber for good advice – yet you’re bemoaning a plumber who gave ‘no advice’ and followed engineered plans. Would you have even listened if he did give advice on the under sizing – or the skeptic within you think ‘here we go another plumber trying to overcharge me!’
Bought a 30-year double house, and discovered mold and damp problems. Terracotta pipes under the house connected to the bathroom were wet and presumed to be leaking. 70K quote to reline.
Further investigation showed previous owner installation of heat pump overflow lines just emptied onto the ground, next to the bathroom.
Connecting the lines to buckets showed over 20 l a week ponding under the house. Connecting heat pump overflow to sewer line fixed the water, and over time the terra cotta pipes dried out.
Added subfloor ventilation fans and the underfloor is completely dry, as proven by regular inspection.
Plumber wanted to install ag lines beside footings as shown in the how not to do ag drain diagram. No need now with HWS fixed.
Excellent article and keep in mind those HWS overflow pipes
Thanks for the information Matt, do you know anybody in Sydney who can do the job of installing the Agi pipe properly as my house is on a slope.
I’ve used the pipe in Western Australia, the area I lived was high in clay and local shire laws stated that down pipes to be connected to soak wells, problem being is that the soak wells filled and blew out. I connected the agi pipe to all 9 soak wells, lots of gravel around the pipe, I then ran the pipe both sides of my property to my front verge where I placed vents for any excess water to escape. Only once did I ever see water come from the vent. Fortunately for me my land was large enough to run a pipe 2m away from my house and my block sloped slightly down to the road giving water a direction to flow.
The combination use of soakwells and agi pipe are fantastic, only mistake I see people make is not enough agrigrate gravel aroung the pipe and soak well.
Thanks for the help on how to set up proper drainage pipes for your property and which ones will help you in getting rid of water that you do not want. Just like you mentioned, keeping the water drainage away from your home is the best idea so that there is no chance that it gets inside. Living on the coast, I think that I will definitely need something like this for when the storms come. Thanks again!
Does it meet code to connect down pipes to an agricultural drain? (Is it legal?)
Hi Sophie. I’m not sure what the code requirements are for stormwater plumbing in your state. Speak to a certifier or to your local authority. However when we look for ways to improve drainage around a house I recommend not having roof stormwater pipes connected to agricultural pipes unless they are well away and downslope from the house.
Can anyone else comment?
Matt
No not legal and will distribute the stormwater through the soil via the agi pipe causing a major drainage problem with the related potential foundation problems