What Is a Besser Block? Sizes, Types and How Block Walls Work

A Besser block is a hollow, rectangular concrete masonry block used to build walls in houses, retaining walls, sheds, pools and commercial and industrial buildings. In Australia the name is used for almost any standard grey concrete block. You will also see it spelt Bessa block, Besa block or Besser brick.

Besser blocks are useful because they come in standard modular sizes and are quick to lay. Their real structural strength, though, comes from what goes inside them: steel reinforcement placed vertically and horizontally through the hollow cores, which are then filled with concrete grout.

This guide covers Besser block sizes and types, how block walls are built, when they need to be filled and reinforced, and the problems we commonly see in existing block walls.

What Is the Standard Size of a Besser Block?

The standard full Besser block in Australia measures 390 mm long × 190 mm high × 190 mm wide. Laid with 10 mm mortar joints, each block takes up a 400 mm × 200 mm module in the wall. That is why the standard block is called 200 series.

Blocks are made in a range of widths, with the length and height kept the same so the courses line up:

SeriesActual size (L × H × W)Typical uses
100 series390 × 190 × 90 mmNon-structural walls, veneers, garden walls
150 series390 × 190 × 140 mmReinforced house walls, low retaining walls, fences
200 series390 × 190 × 190 mmReinforced house walls, retaining walls, pools
300 series390 × 190 × 290 mmTaller or heavily loaded retaining walls

Half blocks, typically 190 × 190 mm in face size, are used at wall ends and openings to keep the bond correct. The 150 series and 200 series are the most common widths in Australian residential construction.

How many Besser blocks per square metre? With a 400 × 200 mm module, a square metre of wall uses 12.5 full blocks. Add an allowance for half blocks, special blocks and breakage.

Sizes and the range of special blocks vary slightly between manufacturers, so confirm dimensions with your supplier.

Besser block retaining wall built as part of a house raise project

Types of Besser Blocks

A reinforced block wall uses several block types, each with a specific job:

  • Full (stretcher) blocks: the standard block used for most of the wall.
  • Half blocks: used at ends, corners and openings to maintain the bond.
  • H blocks: open-ended blocks that can be placed around vertical reinforcement rather than threaded over it.
  • Knock-out (bond beam) blocks: blocks with webs that can be removed to create a horizontal channel for bond beams and lintels.
  • Cleanout blocks: blocks with an opening at the base of the core. They let the block layer remove mortar droppings and let the reinforcement laps be inspected before the cores are grouted.

Cleanout blocks are easily overlooked, but they matter. If mortar droppings block the bottom of a core, the grout cannot fill it properly and the reinforcement may not be bonded where it is needed most.

Illustration of a hollow concrete masonry block showing its two cores
A standard hollow concrete masonry block.

How Besser Block Walls Are Built

Blocks are laid in courses, usually in stretcher bond, where each course is offset by half a block from the one below. The blocks are bedded in cement mortar, typically with 10 mm joints.

Vertical reinforcing bars are set into the footing as starter bars and extended up through the cores. Horizontal bars are placed in knock-out blocks to form bond beams and lintels.

Close-up of a grey concrete Besser block

Once the mortar has cured, the cores are filled with grout, a flowable concrete mix with smaller aggregate than normal concrete. Tall walls are usually grouted in stages in accordance with the engineer’s specification, because wet grout exerts considerable pressure on the blocks.

In Australian residential work it is now common to fill every core rather than only the reinforced ones. It uses more grout, but builders often find it quicker and simpler, and it avoids questions later about which cores were filled.

Vertical steel reinforcement in a Besser block retaining wall before core filling

Do Besser Blocks Need to Be Filled?

For almost any structural wall, yes. Hollow, unfilled blocks have little resistance to sideways loads such as wind, soil pressure or impact. Reinforcement and grout are what turn a stack of blocks into a structural wall.

An unfilled block wall carrying only vertical load, such as a lightly loaded internal wall, may sometimes be acceptable. In practice, it is unusual for a load-bearing or retaining Besser block wall not to need reinforcement and core filling.

Do Besser Blocks Need to Be Reinforced?

Structural block walls need reinforcement, and its position matters as much as its presence. Bars placed against the wrong face of a retaining wall, or with too little grout cover, can leave the wall weaker than designed and more prone to corrosion.

Besser Block vs Cinder Block: What’s the Difference?

In everyday use, they mean much the same thing: a hollow building block. The names come from different places.

  • Besser block is the common Australian name. It comes from Besser, a long-established manufacturer of block-making machinery.
  • Cinder block is mainly an American term. It originally described blocks made with cinders or ash as aggregate. Australian Besser blocks are made from concrete, not cinders.
  • Concrete block, concrete masonry unit (CMU) and blockwork are the technical and trade terms.
  • Breeze block is a British term for a building block. In Australia it more often means a decorative screen block with open patterns, which is a different product.

What Are Besser Blocks Made From?

Besser blocks are made from concrete: cement, sand, aggregate and water, with oxides for colour and other additives as needed. The mix is pressed into moulds in a factory, cured and delivered to site on pallets.

What Are Besser Blocks Used For?

Reinforced and core-filled, Besser blocks are used for:

  • external and load-bearing walls of houses, particularly in cyclone-prone areas;
  • retaining walls, including walls retaining fill beneath a raised raft slab;
  • basements and lower-level walls;
  • sheds, workshops and industrial buildings;
  • swimming pools;
  • boundary walls and fences; and
  • lift shafts and stair cores in low- and medium-rise buildings.
Raft slab built on top of a Besser block retaining wall
Besser block retaining wall supporting a raft slab.
House raft slab with Besser block walls forming its sides
Raft slab and concrete masonry walls.
  • Strength: reinforced and core-filled block walls are strong, stiff and resist impact well, which is why they are common in cyclone regions.
  • Fire and sound: concrete masonry is non-combustible, and block walls can be designed to achieve fire-resistance levels and useful acoustic separation.
  • Durability: properly built and protected block walls have a long service life with little maintenance.
  • Speed and familiarity: modular sizes, a skilled block-laying trade and well-established design guidance make block walls straightforward to build.
House on a sloping site with a raised raft slab supported on Besser block retaining walls
Raised raft slab on a sloping site, with Besser block walls below slab level.

Besser Block Retaining Walls

Reinforced Besser block is one of the most common materials for residential retaining walls. A well-performing retaining wall depends on four things working together:

  1. a footing designed for the wall height, loads and ground conditions;
  2. reinforcement of the right size, spacing and position;
  3. properly filled cores; and
  4. drainage and waterproofing behind the wall, so water pressure does not build up and moisture does not come through.

Drainage is the element most often skimped on, and in our experience it is behind many retaining wall problems. Our article on ag drains covers how to get subsoil drainage right.

The Concrete Masonry Association of Australia publishes detailed design and construction manuals for reinforced block retaining walls, available at cmaa.com.au.

In Queensland, retaining walls over 1 m high, and walls affected by loads such as nearby buildings, driveways or sloping ground (see retaining wall zone of influence), generally need building approval and engineering design. Check the requirements with your certifier or council before you build.

Side view of a reinforced concrete masonry wall under construction

How Deep Should a Footing Be for a Block Wall?

There is no single answer. The footing for a structural block wall should be designed by an engineer, taking into account:

  • the height and weight of the wall;
  • whether the wall is retaining soil, and how much;
  • the bearing capacity of the foundation soil;
  • the reactivity of the soil; and
  • any soft soil or loose fill beneath the footing.

Besser Block Pools

Reinforced Besser block is a well-proven way to build an in-ground or partly in-ground pool. Cornell Engineers has previously specified and inspected a number of block pools.

Two details matter most (there is more in our Besser block pool article). The walls and floor need to act together, so that water and soil loads on the walls are carried into the base. Ideally the cores and floor are filled in a single pour to avoid a weak joint where wall meets floor.

Besser block pool walls with reinforcement before core filling
Besser block pool before the cores are filled with concrete.

Fixing to a Besser Block Wall

Before fixing anything to a block wall, find out whether the core you are fixing into is filled. An anchor that works in solid, grouted blockwork may pull out of a hollow core, and the reverse also applies.

  • Light fixings such as shelves and fittings can use masonry plugs and screws.
  • Heavier fixings into core-filled blockwork commonly use mechanical anchors or chemical anchors, such as Ramset Chemset 101 Plus anchoring adhesive with Chemset anchor studs.
  • Fixings into hollow blockwork need anchors specifically suited to hollow masonry. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance.

For structural connections, such as fixing a beam, deck or balustrade to a block wall, the anchors, edge distances and brackets should be specified by an engineer.

Some product links on this page are Amazon affiliate links. If you buy through them, Cornell Engineers may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Besser Block Adhesive

Masonry adhesives can be used to bond blocks in some applications, such as garden walls and landscaping. For a structural wall, an adhesive should only replace mortar if the engineer has specified it, because the wall’s design strength depends on what holds the blocks together.

Where a wall needs a fire rating, any adhesive used must also be compatible with that rating.

Exposed and Architectural Besser Block Walls

Exposed blockwork, especially polished or coloured architectural blocks, can look excellent. It does need planning. Usually only one face of the wall is the feature face, because it is difficult to source enough perfect blocks for a wall that is fully on show from both sides.

Architectural walls are still structural walls. Reinforcement, core filling and waterproofing need the same care as in any other block wall, with the added constraint that defects are harder to hide or repair.

Besser Block Alternatives

  • Formed reinforced concrete walls: very strong and flexible in shape, but usually more expensive than blockwork of similar size.
  • Precast concrete panels: cast flat and lifted into place. Common on industrial and commercial buildings where there are enough panels to justify the setup.
  • Reinforced clay brick or clay block: similar principles to reinforced Besser block, with a brick appearance inside and out. These walls are relatively narrow, so accurate placement of reinforcement and adequate cover are critical.
  • Insulating concrete forms: lightweight stay-in-place blocks filled with reinforcement and concrete. They insulate well but are less robust against impact, and retaining walls built with them need careful waterproofing.
  • Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC): light and easy to cut, but without the strength and robustness of reinforced blockwork.
  • Dry-stacked blocks: blocks laid without mortar and finished with a surface coating. Rarely used in Australia and difficult to get right.

Construction Issues With Concrete Blocks

  • Besser blocks are not waterproof. Walls retaining soil, especially beside habitable rooms, need a waterproofing membrane on the soil side and effective drainage behind the wall.
  • Grout pressure: tall walls are usually grouted in stages to limit pressure on the blocks while the grout is fluid.
  • Bond beams: residential walls commonly have a reinforced bond beam at the top of the wall and over openings.
  • Control joints: vertical joints allow for movement between wall panels. In our experience they are particularly important in long retaining walls.
  • Unreinforced or poorly reinforced blockwork can crack and move. Correct placement of reinforcement is essential.
Cracked concrete masonry wall in a building where reinforcement was inadequate
Concrete masonry needs reinforcement to resist cracking and movement.

The main Australian Standards for concrete masonry are AS 3700 Masonry structures and AS 4773 Masonry in small buildings.

Efflorescence on Besser Blocks

Efflorescence is the white, powdery or crystalline salt deposit that appears on the surface of blockwork. Water moving through the wall dissolves salts from the concrete, then leaves them behind when it evaporates at the surface.

White efflorescence on a Besser block basement wall caused by moisture moving through the wall

Efflorescence is a symptom, not the problem itself. It shows that water is moving through the wall. How much that matters depends on where the wall is: some moisture in a garage wall may be tolerable, but the same moisture in a wall beside a bedroom usually is not.

Common sources of the water include:

  • missing, damaged or poorly detailed waterproofing behind a retaining wall;
  • blocked or inadequate drainage behind the wall;
  • surface water directed towards the wall; and
  • leaking pipes in or behind the wall.
Efflorescence salt deposits on the face of a Besser block wall

The deposits themselves can be cleaned off with a product such as Crommelin Efflorescence Remover. If the water source is not dealt with, they will come back.

Container of Crommelin Efflorescence Remover

Fixing the cause might involve improving drainage behind the wall, reinstating waterproofing, redirecting surface water, installing a cut-off drain or treating the exposed face of the wall. The right fix depends on where the water is actually coming from.

Problems With Existing Besser Block Walls

Besser block walls are strong and durable when they are properly designed, reinforced, grouted, waterproofed and drained. Problems usually appear when one of those elements was inadequate, or when site conditions have changed since the wall was built.

Warning signs include:

  • stepped or vertical cracking through the blockwork;
  • a retaining wall leaning, bulging or moving;
  • persistent damp, efflorescence or water entry;
  • rust staining, which can indicate corroding reinforcement; and
  • hollow-sounding blocks where the wall was expected to be core filled.

Cornell Engineers investigates problems in existing concrete masonry, including cracking, movement, water entry, retaining wall distress, deterioration and questions about whether a wall was built as designed. Our role is to work out what has happened, assess whether it matters structurally, and give practical advice on what should happen next. Where a dispute is involved, we also prepare independent expert reports.

If you have a problem with an existing block wall, send us the property address, photographs, a short description of what you have noticed and any drawings or reports you have. We will review the information and let you know whether the matter is a good fit for Cornell Engineers before preparing a fee proposal.

Request a quote

Further Reading

28 replies on “What Is a Besser Block? Sizes, Types and How Block Walls Work”

I am trying to determine the FRL of an existing block wall – boundary wall? Worst case scenario that it’s not core filled. It needs to achieve an FRL of 90/90/90.? We currently have a Type C building and the boundary block wall was built in the 1960’s – 70’s? RBS is saying that the structural engineer can nominate this. Thanks

Block houses in North Queensland are or were rated for category 1 or category 2 this I don’t understand with the thought and placement of plates V’s and W’s involved, I think it would be easier and stronger possibly cat3 or cat4 to solid fill everything. Or do we wait for Darwin to happen again.

I have a back yard split Besser block wall that is dark grey/black from mould. Is there a light coloured paint that could be used to block the ugly black/grey appearance ?

Hi planning on a adbri versaloc 6x3mtr above ground pool. I see some people use Besser blocks with bottom clean out course, but versaloc don’t have cleanout blocks.
Will there be any issues using versaloc blocks laid on a 200mm slab, 16mm bar at block centres then core filled?

Hi, I’m investigating whether a block pool would be suitable to build on sand and what type of dimensions allow for the correct weighting as mentioned here? Our space allows for a 5.3 x 4.8m pool.

Hi there, We have water coming inside from the first course of the Bessar block but did water prove membrane outside layer up to 1.8 mt. Exterior face on Neighbour side wasn’t sealed and might be source as wall made a trench along their garden bed. No permission access. Any suggestion?

As small as you like. Nonloadbearing. No consequence for failure. Non-structural. The easiest thing in the world and a walk in the park…
But:
If it were me, I’d go at least 300 x 300 with 3-L11TM in the bottom. But I like to do things once and well.
Matt

Hi Matt
I want to cut out a section of a core filled block wall / to install a fixed glass window
What precautions should I be taking , and am I silly in assuming the core filled wall will support itself , given the steel reinforcement installed in the wall above

Hi,
I want to specify an integral concrete slab with a 900mm high x 125mm wide retaining wall terminating just above FGL. Am I able to locate, directly on top, 110 hollow core cement block work. I am a little unsure as to how you would affix the cement block to the top of 125mm wide wall. With starter bars, wall ties or other? I should like to keep the overall width of the wall to 230-250 using 70mm-90mm timer studwork.
Thanking you,
Richard.

Hi Matthew,
Thanks for this great info. We are currently planning a build with a 2m cut and core filled blockwork garage with a retained rear wall.
Is it possible to incorporate cut down besser blocks to stay within wall width dimensions? I just cant see the architect’s design matching standard block sizes and my local engineer is taking months due to being under the pump at the moment. It is doing my head in.

Hi Dave
Normally not. Unless the architect is dimensioning the wall as a brickwork retaining wall. So the standard sizes are 150mm (ie 140mm) and 200 series (190 wide). I have seen clockwork walls ‘cut down’ to fit inside a boundary – not pretty. I’d stick with 200 series so that core fill makes it all the way down to the bottom of the core (nice wide pots). Get the architect to have a read of our website or send him to Bunnings to measure Besser blocks for themselves.
Matt Cornell

Hi Matt, appreciate all the content on your website. Just wanted to know what your thoughts were between using besser block retaining VS drop edge beam for a split level slab on a slope. Edge beams are between 600mm to 1200mm in height. Thanks

Hi Ben
An exposed concrete edge up to 400mm high set up by formworkers who know their stuff should give a neat enough vertical edge – especially if the finished surface is then rendered to take out any imperfections. The issue is the density of wet concrete pushing sideways on formwork can quickly deform insufficiently braced side walls. The result is ugly and difficult to fix.
It’s not normally an engineer’s call though because the builder and the slab formworkers/concreters know their own limits and abilities to install edge formwork with enough rigidity that it doesn’t look unsightly when stripped. These guys don;t have the same sets of formwork ties and braces that you see on multi-residential columns for example.
Most residential carpenters will probably max out at 400mm before they’d rather you block up from footing to slab height.
But as I say, the guys on site normally know their own limits and if you can hit them up well before the drawings are finished you can play to their strengths rather than play catchup when the job is underway.

Hi Matt, thanks for your response. It makes a lot of sense. If the builder/concreter has expressed their preference for besser block retaining, in your experience, is there a higher likelihood for it to leak in the future? My block is on a down slope from the road and I’d say it is 1m lower than the road level.

Hi Ben
Water has to get under the slab for it to travel to the downslope side and leak out. The solution is to improve upslope side drainage so water can’t get under the slab. Then you don’t need to worry about water coming out the low side.
Matt Cornell

Hey Matthew,

awesome stuff on this website. Love the detailed information.

I am currently laying 300 series blocks as external walls to my home here in Rocklea, QLD.

I was wondering what is the maximum core filling height for 300 series blockwork – whether I can pour in one single go, or need to break it up into stages? Some walls are going to be 2800mm high and they have clean out blocks as the first course. I wouldn’t want the biscuits to blow out as the core filling concrete gets poured.

Your advice is appreciated.

Hi Henry
I’m a bit slow to reply and I guess you have your answer by now.
The density and sideway pressure of wet concrete doesn’t vary with the thickness of the wall. So if you can corefill a 2700mm high wall x 200mm thick then you should have no problem corefilling a 300 series Besser block wall x 2700mm high too.
But
You’ll have more weight to support in the lintel props and a wider block to resist corefill flowing out the bottom of window sills so you’ll need to take extra care at openings.
Hope it went well. Feel free to let me know if any other problems came up during corefilling.
Matt

Brilliant Matt! Thanks for your answer. I am also a bit slow at laying blocks 😉

I have started but am still going… so it will be a while until they are corefilled…

I really appreciate your site Matthew – and I live in Darwin! There’s lots of useful information and you’re not stingy with the very detailed information you provide.

I’d use your services in a flash if you were in the Top End. Really appreciate all the insights you’ve given. And I know if all the advice you’ve provided isn’t enough – your services are required. Excellent work! Thank you.

Thanks for the post on building walls! As you mentioned, there are many different ways to build a wall, but one of the most popular methods is by using reinforced concrete.

Reinforced concrete has many benefits over other materials like Besser blocks. For example, reinforced concrete can be curved or straight, and doesn’t need to stick to standard thicknesses. Additionally, it is extremely strong and can support loads much greater than other materials.

Hi. I’m using 140mm wide besser blocks to support a suspended slab. Is it better to use the 15.42 or 15.48 (h type). What’s the difference? I noticed the 200 & 300 wide H series have a higher core volume. Also the adbri blocks have a compressive strength of 15MPa minimum. If I use 40MPa concrete/grout mix to fill the core, will my wall have a compressive strength of 40MPa or do I have to source a besser block with a higher density, therefore higher compressive strength?

Hi Fazli
If the wall is not retaining soil then standard blocks will be fine. 150 series blocks have a smaller core so your vertical wall reinforcement will have to be positioned carefully so it is central or as specified on the engineering drawings. That’s hard because reinforcement is dropped down the core after the blocks are laid and I haven’t seen a successful way of chairing bars in Besser blockwork.
The strength of the corefill is a question for your engineer. If in Australia, check out AS3700-2018 and https://cmaa.blob.core.windows.net/media/2855/reinforced-masonry-under-compression-changes-to-as-3700-2018.pdf
Regards
Matt Cornell

I have a twelve metre long two metre high besser block retaining wall in my garden. In the space of ten years it has had five coats of paint.
I have just completed the last two coats but before I sanded, stripped in some areas and topped up the mortar. We are now having a lot of rain and I am getting rust stains running down the wall. Where are they coming from and how do I fix the problem ? Appreciate your help ..Elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth
Rust stains running down a Besser block wall could be from any steel that has been used in the wall. Could it be some old nails or screws are in the wall and have corroded with being exposed to the elements?
When steel (reinforcement) corrodes within concrete-filled Besser block cores, the corrosion products have a greater volume than the original steel so if the steel reinforcement in a concrete-filled core is rusting then I would also expect there to be cracks in the walls where the corroded steel exists. Since you didn’t mention cracks then I can only assume that the steel that is rusting is not embedded in a concrete-filled core.
The repair work and assessment of your issue is a specialty item that will require an engineer’s inspection and advice.

Hi there, I have water coming from the first course of Besser block inside the house? I have water prove membrane all the outside up 1.8 mt high, and still get water inside,
can you help me out?

Hi Max
First stop: head to our page al about drainage and houses on sloping sites: https://cornellengineers.com.au/houses-on-sloping-blocks-with-drainage-problems/
Check out the video. If goes through the process we follow when trying to prevent water coming through Besser block walls like yours.
Then, schedule an appointment with an experienced forensic structural engineer. They are experienced in finding sources of water and how to cut them off.
Last resort: waterproof the internal surfaces – but that just tends to push the water somewhere else.
Best of luck.
Matthew Cornell

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