What is Slab Heave and How Does it Crack Houses

Slab heave is uneven movement of a house slab and its footings, caused by reactive clay soil beneath it swelling and shrinking as its moisture content changes. Parts of the house rise or fall relative to each other, and the walls, ceilings and floors crack.

Slab heave typically shows up as cracks in internal walls and ceilings, cracked floor tiles, doors that stick or swing open, and floors that are no longer level. Here’s our video explaining it.

In short, slab heave is:

  • uneven movement: different parts of the house moving up and down relative to each other;
  • caused by uneven changes in ground moisture: the amount of water in the soil varies from one part of the site to another;
  • acting on reactive clay: clay soils swell when they get wetter and shrink when they dry out.

Centre Heave vs Edge Heave

Centre heave and edge heave compared Left: centre heave, where the middle of the slab is pushed up higher than its edges as clay under the centre swells. Right: edge heave, where the edges of the slab rise higher than the middle as clay around the perimeter swells. Centre heave (“doming”) Middle of slab rises relative to the edges Clay under the centre gets wetter and swells Edge heave (“dishing”) Edges of slab rise relative to the middle Clay around the perimeter gets wetter and swells
The two classic slab heave shapes. The dashed line shows the slab’s original level. Movement is exaggerated for clarity.
  • Centre heave (“doming”) is when the middle of the slab ends up higher than the edges.
  • Edge heave (“dishing”) is when the edges end up higher than the middle.

The same shapes can also come from the opposite process. If the perimeter dries and shrinks while the centre stays moist, the edges drop and the slab domes. Either way, it is the difference in moisture between parts of the site that does the damage.

What Causes Slab Heave?

Slab heave is caused by reactive clay soils changing volume as they gain or lose moisture. Sources of extra moisture include:

  • rainwater and poor surface drainage around the house;
  • leaking or broken stormwater, sewer and water pipes;
  • garden irrigation and garden beds against the slab;
  • groundwater and water moving through the ground from uphill; and
  • badly installed ag drains and unsealed joints between paths and the house.

Drying causes uneven movement too. Tree roots, long dry seasons, switching off irrigation that the ground had become used to, and uneven shading can all dry part of the site and make it shrink.

How much a site can move depends on how reactive its clay is. That is set out in the site classification from your soil test.

Why Does Slab Heave Affect Houses?

Think about the day, week or month your house was built.

Right up to the minute your slab was poured, ground moisture across your block was pretty consistent, right? All of the ground got wet when it rained and dried out when it was hot and sunny.

Now pour a concrete house slab over part of it. The slab covers some of the ground and stops it getting wetter or drier. Around the edge, the ground still gets wet and dry.

That variation in soil moisture under and around the house is what causes slab heave. If you could somehow keep all the ground equally wet, or equally dry, you would minimise it.

An Experiment: See for Yourself

Try this. Wet a tea towel evenly and lay it flat on the kitchen table. Cover the middle with an upside-down dinner plate. Now wait.

Upturned dinner plate on a wet tea towel, used to show how a slab traps moisture in the ground beneath it
The plate-on-a-tea-towel experiment shows how a slab changes the moisture in the ground beneath it.

What happens?

  • Where the tea towel is uncovered, it dries out.
  • Around the edges of the plate, it dries out a little.
  • In the middle, under the plate, it stays wet.

Moisture evaporates where the tea towel is uncovered. Some of the moisture under the plate wicks sideways and evaporates too. But the moisture in the very middle stays put.

The very same thing happens when you build a house. The uniform moisture conditions are interrupted.

Whether the site starts wet and dries out, or starts dry and gets wetter, the effect is the same. Soil that had consistent moisture now has uneven moisture, and uneven moisture means reactive clay swells and shrinks unevenly.

Moisture under the slab changes slowly, while moisture around the outside changes quickly. Every moment they differ, the soil is swelling or shrinking at different rates, and that is what is moving your walls up and down.

Signs of Slab Heave

  • diagonal cracks running from the corners of doors and windows;
  • cracks in internal walls and cornices, often worse in the middle of the house (centre heave) or near external walls (edge heave);
  • cracked or drummy floor tiles;
  • doors that stick, or no longer latch;
  • gaps opening under skirting boards or between walls and ceilings; and
  • cracks that open and close with the seasons.

Not every crack is slab heave. Concrete shrinkage, settlement of fill and frame movement can look similar. Working out which one you have takes a proper investigation. See our article on cracks and gaps.

Slab Heave vs Subsidence

Heave is upward movement, usually from clay swelling. Subsidence or settlement is downward movement, from clay shrinking, fill consolidating, or loss of support. Houses on reactive clay often experience both in different places at different times of year.

The distinction matters because the fixes are different. Heave is usually managed by fixing the moisture source. Permanent settlement on poor ground sometimes needs underpinning, which is the wrong answer for most heave problems.

Heaving Concrete Driveways, Paths and Patios

External slabs heave for the same reasons, often more dramatically, because they are thin, lightly reinforced and sit right in the zone where the ground wets and dries fastest. Tree roots, leaking pipes and water running under the slab edge are common culprits.

A heaving path or driveway beside the house can also push against the house and direct water to its footings. That is one reason an isolation joint, properly sealed, is worth getting right.

How to Fix Slab Heave

Fixing slab heave is mostly about removing the sources of uneven soil moisture: repairing leaks, improving surface drainage with tools like spoon drains, managing gardens and trees, then giving the ground time to stabilise before repairing the cracks. We cover this in detail in how to fix slab heave.

The type of slab matters too. Waffle slabs are particularly vulnerable to moisture getting underneath. See beware waffle slabs and slab heave: waffle slab vs conventional raft slab.

For background, the QBCC also has homeowner information on subsidence and building movement.

Is Your House Cracking?

Cornell Engineers investigates slab heave and other building movement. We work out what is actually causing the cracking, whether it matters structurally, and what needs to happen next. Where there is a dispute, for example with a builder or insurer, we also prepare independent expert reports. See our forensic structural engineering and drainage advice pages.

Send us the property address, photographs of the cracking and of the ground around the house, a short description of when you noticed it and how it has changed, and any soil reports or drawings you have. We will review the information and let you know whether the matter is a good fit for Cornell Engineers before preparing a fee proposal.

Request a quote

14 replies on “What is Slab Heave and How Does it Crack Houses”

Matt, I live in NW Florida. We bought the house 8 years ago and it has always had a hump at the front door and the living room slopes to the exterior wall at the rear of the house. It is a monolithic slab. The house does not have any cracks anywhere and all of the windows and doors work properly. The only thing I have noticed, recently, is the front porch slab is separating more from the house. There is a gutter downspout in front of the porch but it has always been there. The other downspouts all drain into a drainage system out to the ditch in front yard. Here’s where I need help. We just finished an addition 15’x30′ on the side of the house. Poured the foundation 6/23 and started framing about a week later and it is finished now 9/23. I did not notice any heaving after the pour but when I started laying the floor I really noticed what looks like a heave. Along the 30′ exterior wall it rises in the middle of the span and slopes down to the corners and slopes down across the 15′ width. We did add a clay and sand mixture to the base but no gravel. There was a driveway there prior to this addition. There was a vapor barrier put down across the flat surface but not in the footer area. Question: would an exterior monolithic slab heave in just a month? I need to mention that the condensate drain for my ac unit was dumping right about the center of that 30′ span. I have since routed it to the front of the house. It was only draining there for about a month. There is no plumbing in the slab. Along with this being monolithic, on the 30′ side of the addition we poured a step down slab that is a driveway. It was all done in one pour. The condensate was actually dumping onto that step down slab and draining away from the house. There is no vapor barrier under the driveway slab. The addition has lap siding and when I look down the 30′ side it seems like there is a rise in the middle on some of the rows but not on others. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott

Hi Scott
Timeframe for slab heave is a funny thing – but let’s first rule out ‘heave’ which is lifting. Is there potential another part of the slab has dropped relative to the high area rather than the high area going up? Could some of the ground have dried out after you poured the slab?
Unfortunately there isn’t much you can do if the slab is no longer level. You copuld maybe try a self-levelling compound over the top of the slab but if the movement is ongoing this will be just wasted when the slab moves again.
Fix all and any drainage issues and possible variations in moisture. Build a flexible superstructure (walls). Monitor. Hope….
Not much help I know but I hope it points you in the right direction.
Matt Cornell

We got a heaps slave but we cannot find out the exist cause of it! We inspect our proper more than two times even they cannot find out the reason! We got big zig zag crakes inside the house as well! Is any other reason of it!

High Matt it’s Pamela Crane again I forgot to tell you we have a Waffle slab and it was built in 2008 .I know we will be untouched with you if the insurance company won’t help us thank you .

High Matt my name is Pamela Crane we resently found cracked on the out side the house don’t get started the inside is bad we contacted the insurance company they sent out engineering company he told we have a fall of 30ml in the middle of house and 35ml on the far side we think the insurance company won’t help us we are pensioners and we no this is going to cost what I want to know what will the cost be please .

Hi,
Can a root barrier dug to the depth to reach the natural soil be as effective as a cut off trench?
On one side of my home the neighbours are slightly higher and although I will be paving the concrete up to the fence line I want to stop any water from next door just in case.
Another engineer suggested a cut off drain also which I read on your site is not ideal.

Hi Danny
A cut off trench works fine so long as it can be positioned away from your dwelling and it can be laid in a trench with a slope so that it is free-draining. Root barriers aren’t necessarily designed to remove water from the ground. You’re in the right track by investigating your options and using an experienced, local engineer who has knowledge of your site is definitely a good ideas.
Matt Cornell

Thanks Matt, I have consulted a few engineers all with different opinions which leaves me confused actually. The site cut slopes back and its about 900mm of fill at the front and 500mm of fill at the rear before it reaches the natural soil. The neighbours have fenced right up to the boundary so there isn’t really alot of water but as they are a little higher I just wanted to eliminate ANY chance of moisture coming in horizontally to the expansive fill soil so I was thinking of using the root barrier film like a vapour barrier between the two properties trenched to the natural soil level.

Hi Danny
I cut off drain will work well in that situation as long as it is dug down into the natural ground.You can slope the plastic
liner from the house down into the house side trench wall .
depending on the width of your trench it can be tricky getting the plastic liner positioned and sitting all the way to the bottom of the trench.
Jason

Hi, we had a water pipe burst under our driveway and didn’t know due to it being enclosed on three sides, the only indication of water pipe being broken was from water coming up through the slab of driveway in areas of cracking and where the cracking is the driveway has a heave. The driveway has been dowled to front of shed slab and no sign of heaving at that point. Would the expanding clay soil have caused the heave as we guess the water may have been leaking from the pipe for up to one year as our water bill was high during that parried. Thanks Aaron

Hi Peter
Slab heave is caused by clays swelling when there is more soil moisture available. The swelling causes concrete footing and slabs to lift unevenly. Yes. Walkways can be affected just as easily as house footings. The difference is that the resultant damage isn’t as bad, but this depends on what the walkway slab is near and whether it is connected to any other structures.
Matt Cornell

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